This page is to be used to clarify the building process for those under construction. Typically, we will post answers to questions we recieve from builders and to discrepencies that are pointed out in the manual.
17.5 lbs fully rigged and with two sets of spreaders
The Rigging Manual is for those who want to rig their own masts.
The short story:
The spreaders are made of carbon and s-glass. A simple jig is made to accurately place and install the spreaders. Both sets are filleted onto the mast and carbon tape is used to reinforce the installation. Peel ply is used to hold the uni carbon tape down until cured.
A carbon s-glass mast butt is made by using an aluminum tube as a mandrel. A bottom plate is made of carbon/Kevlar and s-glass and installed. The square bar for the mast base is made of carbon/Kevlar and bonded to the base and the spinnaker block is installed. The entire unite is screwed on to the base of the mast.
A carbon / s-glass pivot base is made for the vang / mast attachment. The swiveling vang base is made of carbon and s-glass and is installed with a SS pin.
The balance of the job is like any other mast except that 1/8" Marlow prestretch is used for primary and lower shrouds and lightening rope for the uppers. This all "soft" rigging is lighter, cheaper, and stronger in the end. You don't have to pay for swagging
1. A couple of points about the picture on the right (click on the thumbnail). Notice that station six has screws that go into the end of the side strongbacks. After the assembly is complete, you need to take your hand saw and cut off the triangular part of the strongback than hangs over this station so that it does not interfer with the installation of strips.
2. The manual neglects to mention the piece of 2x2 (actually 1 1/2" x 1 1/2") that stablizes the front several stations. It is fairly self explanitory but you do need to buy the 2x2. The proper holes are shown on the station template patterns.
3. Station 1/2 and station 1 show the gunwale details up front. Make a copy of station 1/2 before you glue it onto the particle board because you will be cutting off that detail when you cut out the station (or at least remember how it looks).
4. The stand for the frame assembly shown on page 41 should measure 24" to the bottom of the notch on the short one and 30" on the other. People over 6 feet tall may want to make them a bit higher.
notice the 2x2 that runs from station 6 forward
click on picture for details
Click on these pictures to make them larger
A wood form was made (upper left) in the airfoil shape of the widest section of the spreader (the mandrel). Plastic was used as a parting agent and allowed to hang below the form a couple of inches. 2 layers of s-glass was applied with peel ply over it and plastic over that. A couple of wood strips were clamped on just below the mandrel to hold the glass tight. Once the s-glass was about 4 hours old it was removed from the mandrel, trimmed and the ply peeled. It was then put back on the mandrel and a layer of 2" carbon tape uni was applied on each side and another centered on the top and draped down to overlap both sides. The carbon tape will stick to this vertical surface because of the rough texture left by the peel ply. Peel ply was again put over it followed by 4 mill plastic and the strips re applied just below the lower edge.
Once cured it was removed and cut into 20 inch pieces and cut diagonally on the band saw to the desire shape. The spreaders were wrapped with tape to force the trailing edge closed and a mixture of linen fibers and epoxy was allowed to run down the inside of the trailing edge to weld it together (about like thick cream).
The ends are taped and filled with enough lightweight filler and carbon powder to make them solid for about and inch. The ends are drilled and the small eyes glued in.
I will bond these directly to the new mast. This will save about 700 grams compared to using Proctor aluminum spreaders with their lightest bracket. Yes, that's more than 1 1/2 pounds.
The process Once you have your manuals and plans you will simply glue the station patterns onto the particle board and cut them out with a saber saw.
But before you start the hull and deck you have a bunch of parts to make. These parts take as much time as the hull and the process will give you experience working with cedar/epoxy and the all important belt/disc sander. Check it out
You'll need those station templates to make the permanent bulkheads.